Guide

Cleaning a tank before visual inspection

Internal cleaning is the step every cylinder inspector knows and many dread: essential to see the real condition of the metal, tedious without the right tool. This guide sums up the method, the equipment and the precautions for cleaning a steel scuba cylinder before its visual inspection.

Why clean before inspecting?

A periodic visual inspection means examining the inside of the cylinder with a lamp or an endoscope to detect corrosion, pitting, cracks or deposits. A thin layer of oxidation, scale or dried moisture hides exactly what you are looking for: a corrosion pit under a film of rust is invisible. Cleaning strips the metal bare so the diagnosis is reliable, and removes deposits that would otherwise keep corroding the tank and end up in the regulator.

Equipment

Workshop whips sold by dive retailers cost €98 to €200 each. The DécapBloc kit, standard + reverse, handmade with 1.2 mm stainless strands and a coated shaft, is €150.

Step by step

  1. Empty the cylinder completely and remove the valve. Never work on a pressurised tank, even at residual pressure.
  2. First inspection with a lamp: locate the affected areas, photograph if useful. This is your reference.
  3. Secure the cylinder firmly, horizontal or upright, with a suitable fixture. Keep bystanders away.
  4. Fit the standard whip in the chuck. Check the strands (none broken) and the shaft sleeve (intact: it protects the neck thread).
  5. Insert the whip with the drill stopped, down to the bottom, then start gradually, never above 1,000 rpm. Move slowly in and out along the walls, turning the cylinder a quarter turn every 20–30 seconds.
  6. Stop the rotation before withdrawing the whip. A whip spinning outside the tank lashes the air at several metres per second: this is the main injury risk.
  7. Switch to the reverse whip for the shoulder and the area under the neck: same rule, insert stopped, start inside, stop before pulling out. A few dozen seconds are enough. To withdraw it, turn the whip slightly by hand as you pull it out: the curved strands fold back and do not catch in the neck (umbrella effect), which avoids damaging the whip.
  8. Empty the residue (turn over, tap), rinse with fresh water if the tank was damp or heavily soiled, then dry completely with dry air. A tank closed while damp starts corroding again.
  9. Final inspection with a lamp or endoscope: the metal should be uniformly matte and clean. Any pit, crack or abnormal area is for the qualified inspector to judge, and where required for requalification.

Mistakes to avoid

How long does it take?

With both whips and a properly secured tank, allow 10 to 15 minutes per cylinder, drying aside. For a club session of twenty tanks, that is half a day for two people: one cleans, the other rinses, dries and inspects.

Whip maintenance

Rinse with fresh water after the session, dry, store flat. Stainless strands wear normally over the years: a whip with shortened or bent strands cleans less well and should be replaced. Check the shaft sleeve before every use.

Regulatory reminder. Cleaning prepares the inspection; it does not replace it and does not determine the fitness of the cylinder. The decision to return to service, condemn or requalify belongs to the qualified inspector, under applicable regulations and the procedures of their federation.
See the DécapBloc kit — €150Quote for a club